The intricate geometry of fractals forms the basis for the Tettmann.Doust AW13 Collection; “Infinitum”.
Design duo Naomi Tettmann and Elke Doust employ delicate fractal patterns, formed through mathematical equations, for a collection concept that is clearly complex, but stunningly beautiful.
The fractal details, provided collaboratively by artist and “Fractal Explorer” Dan Wills, are based around negmandels – mathematical equations using a negative integer – which produce striking linear and organically graphic patterns.
The results are reminiscent of spiralling fractured glass, the veins of a leaf or Cubist Picasso; the eternally repeating nature of fractals creating an harmonic basis for the line.
The silhouettes and beading in the “Infinitum” collection are also based around the fractal prints, with detailed seaming and layering drawn around fractal patterns that resemble the Fibonacci spiral.
Essentially Melburnian, with an avant garde flair that is essential to the Tettmann.Doust aesthetic, the line blends utilitarian pants with delicate lingerie, and skintight Sci Fi jumpsuits with wool bomber jackets and intricately-cut leather capes.
“I think what we do is often a little bit avant garde, but it’s not a deliberate thing, it just comes out that way,” Elke says.
“Naomi and I have quite different aesthetics, but they are very complementary at the same time.”
Elke and Naomi place strong emphasis on quality control, ensuring all garments are manufactured in Melbourne, using only good quality natural fibres like silk, leather and wool.
The hues throughout the collection are both rich and sombre, incorporating autumnal hues of rust, lime and lilac, as well as a night sky of deep cobalt, charcoal and violet, alongside an abundance of black.
“All the inspiration that we take is from nature,” Elke says.
“Fractals are based on the idea that you find in nature of patterns repeating themselves. You don’t necessarily see nature in each piece of the collection, but it’s there.”
The subtle details in the pattern-making are evidence of the underlying theme. Naomi played with complex patterns in the contrivance of each design, using arching seams and overlapping segments to resemble gothic petals and fractal spirals. The beadwork, designed by Elke, also plays on the fractal patterns.
“The patterns tie back into each other and go forever, it’s infinite,” Naomi explains.
“It all relates right back to that every time. Every pattern has some part of the fractal in it.”
Alongside a cacophony of complex prints and rich colour, are some simple black pieces – a leather cape, an elegant black evening gown and some utilitarian style jumpsuits and pants.
Aesthetically eclectic, from futuristic tribal elements to whimsical sheer pieces, this collection is evidence of Naomi and Elke’s loving and meticulous design work.
The duo are clearly in their element with “Infinitum”; capturing the perfect, endless beauty of nature’s fractals in a collection that truly adds up.
The AW13 line will be stocked at Gertrude Street’s The Signet Bureau from April in Melbourne, as well as online and at select stores in Perth and Brisbane.