The David Jones Opening Runway 2 promised a huge array of Australian and International designers, and surely didn’t disappoint. With the soundtrack provided by reimaginings of 80s classics, trends of power suiting, disco ready playsuits and new romantic prints felt simultaneously nostalgic and brand new.
Eccentric wunderkinds, Romance Was Born opened the show, highlighting their unique aesthetic with layered lace and intricate beading and psychedelic prints.
Lace and monochrome ruled the first section, featuring designers including Alice McCall, Thurley, Lover and Manning Cartel.
For the men, it was all about layered suiting and muted pastels, with labels like Calibre and Sandro showing the softer side of menswear.
Looks reminiscent of our favourite style icons of Studio 54 reigned supreme at Bec and Bridge, while queen of kaftans, Camilla shut down the runway with an army of soft fabrics storming the runway in the first of the night’s stand-out moments.
Jac and Jack, C/meo Collective and Bassike made the basic amazing in soft camels, nudes and whites, showing the must have off duty uniforms, while Sabatini showed the dark side has its perks with heavy coating and knits.
General Pants @ David Jones carried on the glam rock motif, with acid wash denim, layered shirting and skin tight denim ruling the runway, before melting into a study of denim on denim – fitting for the more fashionable Britney’s and Justin’s of the world.
For the International section, we reached further back to the 70s, with Carven, Helmut Lang and Stella McCartney playing with mini skirts and sweaters, before Sandro Maje brought us back to rock chic with leather, leather and more leather. Flannel and bomber jackets were big for men at Paul Smith and Ted Baker, showing that every bad girl needs a good boy.
Scanlan and Theodore presented an all black collection, as did Rebecca Valance – both showcasing strategic cut-outs and interesting fabrications, while Camilla and Marc opened their presentation with crismon silk before melting into all white. Dion Lee lead with punch, showcasing his inimitable design work in a minimalistic capsule presentation.
Carla Zampatti had movement – from fringing, feathered fabrics to glorious bell sleeves, the presentation was in keeping with the tone of the show, but a little more grown up. Kitx, however, was made for Pamela Morrison – with the earthy prints and soft flowing fabrics, the the Almost Famous vibes emanating from the runway.
The silhouettes subscribed to the bigger is better theory at Tone, with billowing proportions and oversized shirting the look du jour. Marbled prints were seen at Willow, and given the reaction, soon to be seen in street style shots everywhere, while Bianca Spencer broke the rules of evening wear, draping oversized overcoats over gowns – playing with proportion, and the notion of genre dressing.
New to DJs, Aurelio Costarella showcased his signature metallic gowns, while Strateas.Carlucci showed that girls can be boys, borrowing heavily from menswear to create a new, sexy silhouette.
Christopher Esber injected sex appeal to the runway, with thigh high slits and intricate roped detail, and Jack London showed why they’re leading the menswear pack with sharp tailoring, sequins, leathers, and high cuffs.
Closing the show, Ellery took to the stage (with guest performer, Ngaiire backing) with her signature shapes in a monochrome palatte before the runway was taken over, with glitter raining from the rooftops – not a bad intro to the new home of VAMFF!
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