A carefully curated handful of Australian designers made for a show of modern classics last night. A common theme? Luxury minimalism. Day 2 of the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival (VAMFF) brought with it the first Premium Runway event of the season, supported by Miss Vogue Australia. Colours were muted and barely there, hair was sleek in side parted low pony tails and makeup was fresh and rosey. The key to each runway look was versatility- each immaculately styled head-to-toe look could be deconstructed to reveal expertly designed separates that could be worked into any winter wardrobe.
Opening the show was Scanlan Theodore a collection of clean monochrome layering pieces. Necks are high and silhouettes highlight a contrast between the fitted and the voluminous. Figure hugging tops cling to torsos paired with voluminous skirts, while boxy neoprene sweaters are worked back with ultra feminine pencil skirts.
Australia’s reigning king of the digital print has pulled things back this season with a collection focusing on geometry. Colour is blocked and monotone as the designer steps away from bright statement pieces to focus on minimalism and construction. Patches of metallic add impact to structured black pieces while a simple black and white spliced print features heavily.
Bassike’s Autumn/Winter offering falls perfectly in line with the brand’s philosophy to create covetable everyday pieces. Each piece in this collection would work with any other piece, and timelessness is key. Luxury fabrics such as leather and rich wool are the perfect accompaniment to the brand’s signature organic jersey, this season in a strictly neutral colour palette. Menswear features fresh takes on wardrobe staples- a raw hemmed longline hoodie is the perfect wardrobe update for the modern minimalist.
Christopher Esber presented another clean collection, again working predominantly with jet blacks and charcoals. The collection oozed sexuality without being overt about it- there were no mini lengths or plunging necklines, rather a combination of form fitting silhouettes and creative textures. Leather and intricate zippers became a focal point of the slightly grungy collection.
Tiffany & Co. National Designer Award winners Strateas.Carlucci presented a line with its roots firmly planted in quality design. Fresh from their home state win, the boys showcased head to toe black looks featuring peg leg trousers and intricately wrapped longline jackets, voluminous boxy menswear ideal for a Melbourne winter, plus the perfect grey cocoon coat. Strateas.Carlucci’s Autumn Winter collection is a fusion of the luxe and the versatile.
Willow’s Infinity collection is all about understated femininity. Dotted lace worked into sheer panels and thigh high splits adds an element of frivolity to the collection, while the label’s signature drapery in a monochrome palette is direction and hyper on-trend. Boat necked knitwear becomes a winter must-have, while cutaway wrap skirts are the ultimate day to night piece.
Closing the show was Maticevski, showcasing his exquisite eye for detail, understanding of the female form and painstaking skill. Volume is at the heart of the collection, as Toni manipulates a traditional silhouette to create true masterpieces. Soft lilac becomes the first sign of colour for the evening before moving into black metallics and bright whites. Oversized sweaters are teamed with voluminous midi length skirts, nipped in at the waist to create an exaggerated hourglass for the modern woman.
Images by Lucas Dawson.