Concealer really is a magical product. If used properly can hide a multitude of sins. However, there is always the ever present danger that if used incorrectly it can be a disaster.
The trick with concealer is to understand its purpose and they way which concealers utilise colour to hide difficult to cover flaws in the skin. Concealers come in a variety of skin shades to suit your skin tone, however, you may have also seen concealers in shades such as green and purple at your makeup counter. To help you to pick what colour is right for you and what the other colours mean, as well as a few concealer tips, we’ve put it all down so that you’ll never have a disaster on your hands, or in this case, your face!
Firstly, people always ask when is the appropriate time to apply concealer. The answer is, after you apply your foundation. There is no point layering up product when you will find that a good foundation will cover most of your flaws initially, before concealer is needed. If you still have subtle flaws or skin tone that needs correcting then add a little concealer that matches your skin tone.
When buying concealer you should have two-three shades, however, this is not always possible. Always buy one that is slightly lighter than your foundation’s shade. It really brightens under the eye and can also be used to highlight brow, cheekbones and nose. It is also recommended to have one for when you are more tanned. If you are a regular spray tanner, then it is important to have a shade that matches you when you’re more tanned.
The best way to apply concealer on yourself is with your fingertips. Firstly, use a cotton bud and take product from the applicator, so no bacteria from your fingertips contaminates your concealer. Then apply to the places you wish to conceal. Using the warmth of your fingers is a great way to move the product, especially under the eye. When covering spots and pimples, dab product on to spot with a cotton bud or makeup brush and use fingertips to blend the product around the spot. Try not to touch directly on the spot or it will remove the product and will reveal the pimple or blemish you are trying to conceal.
For those who haven’t dabbled in green, purple or even yellow concealers it might baffle you as to what they’re used for. These coloured concealers work on the premise that using opposite colours on the colour spectrum, will neutralise the offending colour to create a more grey appearance. This is the only time where concealing first is applicable, then once the colour you wish to conceal is neutralised, foundation can be applied over the top. Meaning, if you have a red blemish that is too bright for your foundation or even a skin toned concealer to cover, using a green concealer (which is opposite to red on the colour spectrum) will neutralise the colour making it easier to conceal with your foundation. Yellow is great for concealing purple as in bruising or dark under eye areas. Orange is also great for under eye areas, blue veins and also any black/blue tattoo cover up you might want to do. Purple concealers are rarely used but are great to neutralise yellow/orange liver spots or yellow in your skin tone. Also If you have a product that is too yellow for your complexion you can mix in a tiny bit of purple to reduce combat yellowness and create a more neutral product. Blue is also a colour that is rarely used, but is great to neutralise orange, so if you go overboard with a fake tanner, blue will put you back to normal. You can check what colour is best using the colour wheel and select the opposite colour to what colour your balancing against.
Concealers, especially coloured concealers are especially thick. Use sparingly, and dab with a sponge to remove excess. Make sure the product is blended well as sometimes seeing a blemish is better than seeing caked on makeup.
Once concealer is applied, you must set with a translucent powder or a powder that matches your skin tone. This will stop the product from moving throughout the day.
Concealer Palettes in four shades by Makeup Forever ($45)
Concealing is an integral part of a flawless look. For those blessed with great skin you can opt for no foundation and a tiny bit of concealer under eyes and around the nose. For the rest of us it is important to add brightness to the face as well as covering, after foundation and a fabulous concealer is a great way to do that with a product that contains light reflecting particles, such as Makeup Forever HD Concealer ($37) or By Terry Veloutee Enlightening Concealer Brush ($88). As for the coloured concealers, these are for extreme dis-coloration and you shouldn’t be too concerned with using them if you find your regular foundation and concealer are doing their job.
With these tips, you’ll definitely be the magician with concealer!