For the first designer runway of MSFW, the couture-titled show’s overarching theme was definitely new romantic (even down to the music, with Joy Division’s Love Will Tear Us Apart serving as the finale soundtrack). Starring some of Australia’s most creative and successful designers, we saw dramatic trains, ballerina chic, and deconstructed suiting against sharp tailoring.
Grech’s models entered the runway in a battle of good versus evil, with angelic gowns in flowing white and feathered adornments competing against dark, horned, ethereal goddesses in black. The colour palette graduated throughout the collection into emerald green and plum, creating a majestic atmosphere in flowing satin and chiffon, high thigh slits and veils.
Metallic fringes and beaded bodices were the first serving of the day with Costerella as futuristic flappers took to the runway. This soon evolved into a smorgasbord of couture delight as everything between extravagant ankle-skimming gowns to cheeky mini dresses revealed themselves. Gun metal leather, burnished gold, feathers and fur in earthy brown, nude palettes and cross-over fronts and cowls all made an appearance.
Michael Lo Sordo
A soft colour palette with strong forms and structures made up Lo Sordo’s collection. Deconstructed pin-stripe suits, trenches over crops, wet-look snake skin, and turtlenecks in satin all featured amidst a colour range of pink, dusty rose, pale yellow, lilac and baby blues.
Strong silhouettes with sexy slits and cut outs punctuated the collection. Sticking to the classic black and white colour palate for the majority of the show, punchy royal blues were a surprise, making their way into the show by way of a stunning illusion panelled gown, and as the skirt of an intricate floral cocktail dress.
This menswear collection took a leaf out of the 60s alá Madmen with their dapper suit sets, with waistcoats and pocket kerchiefs to match. Check prints were layered with heavy set fabric an satin, in soft, bright hues ranging from pastel blue, red, orange, salmon pink, and purple. The black and white pieces also stood out giving a crisp, clean and dignified silhouette, and was mixed up and given a fresh look with a full white pants and shirt white black jacket.
Fairy-like beings graced the runway with this collection, which included sequin detailing, intricate patterns and even an ode to the Elizabethan collar. Creams, whites and soft powder blues emanated from this collection in soft layers and gathering, finished with delicate gossamer detailing.
Three words to describe this collection; strong, daring, revealing. From leather leotards with flowing chiffon in black, form fitting with tight mesh, leather detail and chunky exposed zips, black and white stark geometric forms and lines, bare shoulders and backs, to draping, bows, intricate cut outs and sequined head pieces, there isn’t much Nicolangëla can’t do.
Ballerinas with attitude. This collection was a sea of metallic appliqué and tulle, mixed with renaissance art and lace. The bubble skirt also made an appearance, as well as sequins, metals, light blue, gold, purple, florals, burgundy, cream, gold.
Image credit Jacob Medina