The Emerging runways are always a highlight of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, with the focus solely on the new breed on talent the city has to offer. At this year’s Emerging Collective runway, student designers from Box Hill Institute, FashionMasters, Holmesglen Institute, Kangan Institute and Whitehouse Institute of Design took to the runway with a widely diverse presentation of their capsule collections.
Mixing 90s street wear with nolstalgic knits and a triple-topped denim look that invoked Rihanna’s daring River Island collaboration opened the runway.
HAYLEY VAN DEN BERG-PITT
Nuevo goth for the post-preppy world. Edwardian collars and monochrome palate mixed with sportswear created a polished, if slightly kooky, collection.
Cyber punk style meets structural cocktail dresses. The playful pastel colour palatte was a great juxtaposition against the sculptural silhouettes.
Leather, lace and exaggerated shoulders – this bondage inspired collection played with classic silhouettes and winked at NFL padding with laced padded shoulders and bustles over sleek gowns.
Insect-like shells took place of bustles, and intricate beading carried through the entire capsule collection. The monochrome palatte added to the armoured feel of the pieces, with the models appearing warrior like on the runway.
Taking cues from the resurgence of 90s cult movies, Catherine Zach’s models epitomised the the coolest girl in school. Showcasing denim dresses with crisp shirts underneath, crops layered over uniform-esque silhouettes and of course, the alt girl staple of Doc Martens made for one of the most wearable capsules of the show.
Perfect for the festival girl queen, Carla Laudani showcased tie dye tees with stark white culottes – with a standout moment of new take on flower crowns – this capsule felt the most spring on the runway.
Soft mint and intricately tailored separates – the geometric knit wrap was a stand out!
Playing with 50s proportions, The Yisha Wang girl took the poodle skirt to shorter and more graphic heights. The quirky prints and oversize fruit flavoured accessories were also highlights of the capsule.
Gucci’s floral obsession meets Yeezy season. Showcasing a layered, sculptural collection, Maelle Moreau’s turn on the runway was a memorable one.
Quilted denim, chunky beanies, and overalls meet again, but this time with a more curated feel.
Long tunics with clashing prints make up this unconventional menswear capsule. The interesting choice of fabrication made the capsule stand out.
Origami chic meets utilitarian style. Marbled monochrome fabric almost paper like in its quality added dimension to the sculptural collection.
Bell sleeves, felt hats and bold pinstripes meet to create this capsule collection. Think Chloë Sevigny as the Mad Hatter.
Creating one of the most interesting silhouettes of the night, melted plastic armour layered over clean, structural separates opened her capsule showing. Also of note were the standout neoprene wings, and a head piece influencers would kill for Spring racing.
Suiting gets a new look, with luxe baroque fabric paired with an updated harem pant taking to the runway. Maximalist separates in a decadent gold and ivory palatte followed, and leaning into the Middle Eastern inspiration, the addition of turbans and head pieces were an inspired choice.
FERNANDA ANDRADE RAMOS
Floral appliqué meets chiffon in a modern play of techniques. The all royal blue and gold geometric cuts added further dimension.
Jessica Lawrence provided a wow moment on the runway with a jacket compiled of leather feathers and a closing jacket worthy of Cookie Lyon.
Time travelling through fabrics and techniques, Brandon Bazley showcased updated takes on flight suits, sherling coats, and closing with leather and silk duster.
Showcasing pleated and layered coats (and the slip dress of my dreams), this capsule showcased wearable, easily paired takes on wardrobe staples.
Playing with hypercolour and Fubu-esque silhouettes, this capsule was a fun and fresh take on the 90s trend.
Crushed, starched neutrals were the base of this collection, with boxy, exaggerated silhouettes rounding out the looks.
Fur fur and fur (faux, of course). The standout piece was a chevron-cut pink fur coat.
Also playing with melted and manipulated plastic, albeit in a more commercial fashion, Mitchell Bizon left this technique as a highlight feature of the military-vibing collection.
Embellished knits (some featuring graphic jellyfish) and mohogany leather made up this collection, complete with slouchy fits perfect for the transsitional Melbourne weather.
SARAH AYUEN KUOL BOL
Intricate knits, macrame neckpieces and rave ready prints – one of the most fun collections shown on the night.
Mad scientist chic – complete with raincoats splattered with blood vessel prints, scuffs over shoes, and stark red hands.
Unisex tuxedo jackets with a heavy dose of embellishment over tapered culottes hit the runway for Rhiannon Yates presentation. The exaggerated shapes of the separates made for a modern twist on dandy dressing.
Gladiator helmets and metallic suiting were key elements of Jade Guerin’s presentation. With a widely monchrome presentation, the focus was square on the silhouettes.
Closing out the show, Madelaine Mortlock’s collection of tulle caped blazers were emblazoned with floral embroidery…and real floral bouquets in the model’s hands.
Imagery Courtesy of Lucas Dawson/Fashion Journal