Beauty looks on Day 4 at MBFWA 15 saw bold lips, strong brows and the continuation of natural and clean skin. Here is the first part of our run down of what we saw today.
Makeup by M.A.C
Naomi Mcfadden created two makeup looks for the show. The first was inspired by Juliet (the Baz Luhrmann version) where it looked like “she was glowing from within”. The look was accentuated with highlights using M.A.C Hush Cream Colour Base and concealer was only used where needed. A bit of colour was added to mimic the natural flush riding up from the cheekbones using M.A.C Posey Blush. Really soft contouring in the natural shadow of the eye with just a hint of colour on the lips.
The look created for the Romeo’s was masculine bordering on androgynous. Minimal on the skin and concealed where needed. The look required a focus and that was the brows which were filled in and brush up.
Throughout the collection, there is a cross in the back of the hair, “so we recreated this cross on the face”.
Hair by Redken
Richard Kavanagh for Redken created a very rock’n’roll look in a nod to Romeo and Juliet – classic and beautifully luxurious, but youthful and cool.
For the Juliet look, hair was prepared by first applying Pillow Proof Primer and then blow drying Diamond Oil with a bristle brush to give a beautifully polished look, working with large curling irons to give the slightest bend. A centre part was created and two sections on either side were twisted back at the back of the head with a cross shape and fixed with two pins crossed, keeping in theme with the face. The look was feminine, soft, whimiscal and romantic said Richard, almost like a “girl who’s had their first pash!”.
The look created for Romeo was tougher and more rock’n’roll. Diamond Oil was blow dried into hair and then using a rough paste, Redken Rootful, was pushed into the hair from the front to the back.
Makeup by Bobbi Brown
Alphie Sadsad, Makeup Director at Bobbi Brown, created a classic look with a twist. The look, with a bit of Parisian chic, was focused on creating a hazy colour around the eye area, similar to a smokey eye, using a mustard tone called Camel. The look was about keeping it all looking monochromatic and natural with the Camel tone as the hero of the look. Skin was kept natural and only applied where needed using demi-matte foundation, Bobbi Brown Skin Weightless Powder Foundation. Whilst the foundation has a velvety tone on the skin, it doesn’t create such a flat base as a matte using soft light reflectors to soften the skin.
Alphie created a natural flush on the cheek using Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Pale Pink and wanted to keep lips looking like they had a natural flush using Bobbi Brown Rich Lip Colour in Bare Pink. The result, a clean, fresh and modern look that is not too overdone so that the model’s face shines through on the runway.
Hair by Goldwell Professional
“What Steven wanted was something modern but with a classic feel. He didn’t want a pony tail but something to complement the gowns” said Sharon Blain from Goldwell Professional. “I looked at the texture of the fabrics and the shape of the necklines. There were a lot of column dresses but also a big gown at the end of the show meaning that the style had to cover all the different looks.”
The look that was created provided one look as the models walked down the runway and another as they walked back. A simple part was created and hair was pulled back, looking like a simple pony tail as the model’s walked down the runway. However, as they turned, it revealed a scalp braid that was twisted and pulled into figure eight shape at the nape of the neck. At the nape of the neck the braid was split into two and twisted into a beautiful figure eight shape. The braids were flattened so that the twist at the nape of the neck was kept flat. Sharon said that anything after the middle line of the ear cannot be seen from the front.
Most of the work that went into creating the style was in the preparation. Sharon said it was vital to flatten the cuticle and get it sleek and flat. Diamond Gloss and Hair Lacquer were used in the preparation.
Nails by essie
Ali Magliveras for essie created the nail look for the show using two coats of Spin the Bottle which is a new shade, right on trend. The colour is pale but opaque so you can’t see your nail through it. It’s like an extension of skin.” says Ali. Steven wanted something elegant and subtle but strong. The final look is a bride and as such the best shade is the iconic essie shade is Ballerina which is the most requested colour for brides. Ali says that “this shade goes with every skin tone, warm or cool.”
Makeup by M.A.C
Victoria Baron from M.A.C. was all about the lip and brow for this show. Inspired by the Bianca Spender girl, “one that is feminine but a bit edge”, the look created strength above subtlety. Skin was kept clean and hydrated through good moisturising of the skin. It was kept natural with no foundation applied and concealing where needed. The key was good skin prep with M.A.C Softening Lotion and M.A.C Fix + Spray.
Brows were pushed up a little and arches filled in to create a masculine shape. Bright lip were applied to some of the models. M.A.C Lady Danger applied to give a bit of a more youthful feel and a bit of edge. M.A.C. Pro Neon Orange pigment was applied to the middle of the lip to add a vibrant addition to the look.
No mascara was used on the eyes with a bit of M.A.C Pro paint pot in Bare Study was used to take out any redness or blueness around the eyes.
Hair by O&M
Michelle McQuillan for O&M created a bit of an edgier look. “A nice high ponytail at the crown, tying it with an elastic and then twisting into a messy knot and leaving the ends out. The Sukuroi Cream was used around the hairline and on the ends to look a little wetter. Rootalicious was used to thicken the hair and Surf Bomb Sea Salt Spray to add texture.
Makeup by M.A.C
For Nicole Thompson from M.A.C, her inspiration came from the colour collection and also from the cavernous space filled with light where the runway was being staged. “We created a consistent look with strong brows and lips to give a bit of edge and roughness”. Brows were strong and boyish to give a bit of toughness to match the strong lip.
The bold red lip was created using Cherry lip pencil all over and to make sure the lip colour was opaque, neon pigments from M.A.C. Pro in Magenta Madness and Red Electric were mixed together and applied on the lips. This created a matte look and prevented any bleeding once M.A.C Lip Glass was applied before the runway.
M.A.C. Mineralise foundation was buffed into the skin and then finished with M.A.C Prep + Prime translucent powder to give a matte look all over. Bone Beige Sculpting Powder was applied to the cheeks and around the eyes to provide subtle definition. Lashes were curled but kept bare. “No distraction from the lips and brows” said Nicole.
Hair by Goldwell
Dale Delaporte, Hair Director at Goldwell was inspired by the structure and prints of the fabric in the collection and the jewellery. A nod to the 70s with textured waves created the look. Dale prepped hair with StyleSign Power whip to get the volume in the hair and StyleSign Magic Whip into the root help to mould the shape. Hair was blow dried forward to create the bend on side and across the forehead. Hair was then tonged through and brushed out, sparking with StyleSign Magic Finish to help get a bit of friction and traction. Dale simply tied up the hair at the bottom to keep it contained. Hair pieces were used on models to ensure that the look was exactly the same on each model, “I want it to look like a tribe of women so they’re all the exactly the same going down the runway” commented Dale.
Nails by essie
Ali Magliveras for essie went for a cool grey look with the essie shade, Cocktail Bling. A similar colour runs through the collection and it was painted on the fingers to give a bit of street cred to the whole beauty look. Ballet Slipper was used on the toes.