The first of this years’ VAMFF Premium Runway series brought with it a combination of structure and fluidity, sex appeal and tomboy tailoring, classic monochromes with rich pops of colour. Presented by Miss Vogue, Virgin Australian Fashion Festival Premium Runway 1 showcased a directional edit of the very best in contemporary Australian design.
An opening by Scanlan Theodore affirmed that fine turtlenecks are the layering piece of the season, used to work back fitted bodices and to add warmth (literally) to strapless cocktail frocks. Black reigned supreme once again, with a play on texture, rather than print, adding interest to block coloured looks.
A varsity tee teamed with a floor length, full skirt opened Être Cécile’s offering, setting up some serious 1950s vibes for the looks that followed. Oversized logo tees were given an upmarket appropriation when tucked into pencil skirts and underneath duster coats while a boxy sweater was belted and teamed with a feminine, sheer skirt.
Versatile separates were the order of the season for Bassike, staying true to their tried, tested and widely lauded aesthetic. Variations on neutrals worked seamlessly together, from tailored pants, fine rib knits, to a scarf draped nonchalantly as a shawl. Each piece, while seemingly simple, featured intricate detail on further inspection- a classic knit was given an update thanks to an angular neckline, and a charcoal suit with a subtle pinstripe became the office wear must-have of the season.
TOME introduced pops of colour to the runway in the form of a crisp blue cotton shirt and a pink accordion pleated midi skirt, and a metallic trench shot to the top of our winter essentials list. Black was a rarity, appearing only on a handful of asymmetric, ankle grazing dresses, featuring exposed shoulders and sultry plunging necklines.
Camilla and Marc played with proportions, with volume playing a key role in their Autumn/Winter offering. A curated colour palette of black, white and a deep wine ensured each piece could be teamed again and again with anything from the collection. A silky number featuring a high neck, slight cap sleeves and a tie waist in a rich oxblood hue was a runway showstopper, and a black heavily fringed off-the-shoulder dress had us dreaming of a modern Pocahontas.
Australian design heavyweight Dion Lee closed proceedings with a collection of electric blue pieces. Sex appeal was at an all time high, with exposed backs and plunging necklines taking centre stage, given a classic Dion Lee point of intricacy with draping and harness detailing.
To see the full show, check out our gallery above.
Photos by Jacob Medina.