Couturing rounds out the coverage of Couture week featuring a summary of the runway shows from Givenchy, Iris Van Herpen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Martin Margiela, Stephane Rolland, Valentino and Versace.
Givenchy Creative Director Riccardo Tisci did what he does best in his Fall 2012 Couture collection for Givenchy. Taking the classic lines of the sixties, Tisci blended them with inspiration from the streets, more specifically, from gypsies who wander his hometown in Italy. Beaded fringes were painstakingly attached by hand, forming beautiful mosaic inspired patterns. Embroidery extended from the top of a garment to the bottom. Luxe fabrics such as sheared mink, nappa leather, wool and cashmere gave the collection an inviting texture. Sequins were delicately embroidered on the inside of a built-in cape, showing the attention to detail Tisci has become famous for.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Iris Van Herpen likes to push the boundaries of fashion. Using computer-assisted design to create amazing 3D patterns which are meticulously constructed by hand, Van Herpen’s collection, although most likely not wearable, was a stunning display of the avant-garde style which can sometimes be lacking at couture week. Outfits were almost alien-like in their construction, with tentacle like details and structure that almost suggested the piece was coming to life. Fashion needs a designer like Van Herpen who aren’t afraid to create the unwearable, in the pursuit of the fashion nirvana.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Despite being 90 minutes late, Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture show didn’t disappoint. Kate Moss’ ex-boyfriend Pete Doherty’s voice provided the soundtrack to the moody runway show, which was inspired by nineteenth century poet Alfred de Musset’s Confession of a Child of the Century. Inspiration was also taken from de Musset’s great love, female novelist George Sand, who was remember for wearing men’s clothes and smoking in public. Gaultier is no stranger to gender bending with male model of the moment Andre Pejic closing Gaultier’s shows previously in women’s clothes. A very gentleman focused collection, Gaultier featured a lot of tails, top hats and tailored suits. A sea of black outfits quickly gave way to flashes of deep purple, orange and absinthe flowing gowns, with a stunning white bridal gown the perfect finale for Gaultier’s collection.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Never one to conform, the Maison Martin Margiela label presented a unique twist on couture. Taking the designer’s love for re-working old clothes, objects and accessories into new pieces, Margiela presented welcome collection of pieces decked with surprising features. The white, cotton jacket that opened the show was beautifully accessorised with a crystal doorknob. A stunning antique silk beaded gown was transformed into a bomber jacket. Models were also unrecognizable, walking the runway with oval shaped masks embroidered with hundreds of crystals. One can only imagine what the label has in stall for H&M in their much anticipated collaboration.
Known as the architect of fashion, Stéphane Rolland presented a strong collection of stunning gowns, inspired by his muse Fan Bingbing, who also walked the runway. With a muted palette of white, caramels and black, crepe de chine and satin dresses were draped within an inch of their lives. Gowns took on an almost warrior like feel with feathers and leather ascents creating goddess like vibe. Despite Kim Kardashian and Kanye West almost upstaging the show with their late arrival, Rolland’s collection gave people more than enough to talk about.
Designing for one of the great fashion houses is always lots of pressure, but designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo more than did the Valentino name justice with their beautiful couture show. With flashes of the trademark Valentino red, the collection was dominated by dark, moody blues. Utilising lush fabrics such as cashmere, crepes and chiffons, the pair presented a collection inspired by nineteenth century altered stakes and a dark romance. Beautiful floral gowns and jackets and embellished brocade rounded out what was an exquisite collection.
There is no mistaking a Versace dress. The strong pastel colours, the fierce mini-dresses and the flowing hip-high split gowns all scream confidence. A Versace dress is made for a strong woman, and as the models stormed the runway in heavily embellished dresses boldly slashed and legs on display in short skirts, it was clear you’d have to be a pretty confident woman to pull of some of these designs. Staying true to the Versace aesthetic, Donatella presented a strong collection in front of an A-list front row. Large cocktail rings featuring emeralds, yellow diamonds and topazes weighed down each models’ hands. This was a collection made for partying, and I’m sure at the after party, Donatella did just that.
Images courtesy of Style.com and Vogue.it