The most fanciful week in fashion finally arrived, and fashion lovers and lusters alike waited with baited breath for the inspiring, and imaginative, looks from our favourite designers to walk the runway. This year, we saw a lot of playful proportions, unconventional materials, and a few surprise additions on the runway (in more ways than one!). Didn’t catch every show? Let us get you up to speed.
CHANEL
Inspired by the idea of “[architect] Le Corbusier goes to Versailles”, Chanel offered structural pieces that straddled the line of minimalism and excess. From a colour palate of whites, reds, and blacks, the iconic fashion house helmed by master designer, Karl Lagerfeld once again proved no one does high fashion quite like they do.
WHAT WE LOVED
A surprise addition of the catwalk was Ashleigh Good’s baby bump, closing the show in a stunning wedding gown.
VALENTINO
Valentino embraced a goddess feel for their runway offering. Regal forest greens and ornate embellishment made up the collection, and echoed the rich backdrop of the showcase.
WHAT WE LOVED
The expertise that went into the embroidering and silk painting on the fantastic gowns.
ELIE SAAB
King of extravagant runways, Elie Saab disappointed no one with the most theatrical runway of the week. Exaggerated skirts much like the gown worn by Sonam Kapoor at Cannes dominated the looks, with beautiful lace and watercolour-esque overlays.
WHAT WE LOVED:
The delightfully feminine prints of the stunning gowns were a definite highlight of the showing.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
A known provocateur, Jean Paul Gaultier’s production was, as he told WWD, inspired by an “elegant vampire in a luxurious jogging suit”. Decedent fabrics, golden embellishments on rich black foundations with highlights of deep reds and metallics perfectly encapsulated the theme…that, and the heavy dose of skin on display.
WHAT WE LOVED
Eurovision winner, singer Conchita Wurst taking to the runway to close out the show in a showstopping gown.
ATELIER VERSACE
In her show notes, Donatella Versace stated that she “…wanted [the collection] to celebrate construction and deconstruction, provoking by taking away fabric, to make couture modern”, and with the abundance of sky high slits and cut away bodices, she succeeded without straying too far from the heart of the Italian design house.
WHAT WE LOVED
The origami-esque silk taffeta skirts, complemented by the glossy black bodices.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Raf Simons, creative director of Christian Dior, has said that “that…my constant drive, to make it younger and make it relevant to women in their lives today”, and in this collection, his eyes were firmly on recreating the 50s. Exaggerated hips on full midi skirts, with luxe overcoats made up the collection, all in a classic 50s colour palate.
WHAT WE LOVED
The architectural aspect of the voluminous skirting in such delicate cream fabrications.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Also inspired by the 50s was Giambattista Valli, but instead of focusing on full skirts, sleek shirting and floral highlights in pastel colours lead the looks on the runway…with a heavy dose of the classic style from the iconic brand.
WHAT WE LOVED
The stunningly decadent ombre skirts against the feminine take on shirting.
GIORGIO ARMANI
In deep reds against classic blacks, the Giorgio Armani showing incorporated sleek cocktail dresses, full gowns, and sexy sheer overlays. Tying it all together was black widow-esque veils, only adding to the dramatics.
WHAT WE LOVED
The embellished netting of the veils, complete with complementing red orbs, only added to the spectacle of the pieces.
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI
Marco Zanini, creative director of Elsa Schiaparelli, said to WWD that with this collection, he “tried to set [himself] free”, and the over exaggerated embellishments of the pieces showed, he truly did. The animation element of the pieces showed creatively what is inspiring to the designer, and speaks to those that want to have a little fun with their fashion.
WHAT WE LOVED
The exaggerated, almost Phillip Treacy-like headpieces against the oversized bows of the skirting.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Inspired by vintage fabrics, the Maison Martin Margiela presentation was a confectionary-laden showcase, with pastel colours and sweet iconography making up the collection…with the signature masks from the fashion house taking centre stage.
WHAT WE LOVED
The Beyoncé-at-the-Met-Gala netting masks against the embellished fabrications.
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
Playing with masculine and feminine norms, the presentation from Alexandre Vauthier played on suiting and soft, flowing gowns to capture the dualistic nature of the modern woman.
WHAT WE LOVED
The playful proportions and sleek, structured suiting of the collection.
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