Last night’s MYER Autumn/Winter 2013 collection launch saw the creation of 1960s-inspired hair and makeup by KEVIN.MURPHY and Yves Saint Laurent. With the new season’s fashion reminiscent of the 60s, the two brands drew influence from the era to produce retro-inspired hair and makeup with a modern, 2013 twist.
HAIR BY KEVIN.MURPHY
KEVIN.MURPHY Session.Master Nathan Gorman (who co-directed the models’ hair with Session.Master James Nicholson) referenced the latest fashion collections from Europe, where the newest trends, such as high necklines and strong shoulders, require hair to be swept back from the face and shoulders. For this reason, KEVIN.MURPHY showcased two fashion-forward hairstyles on models: a low pony and a faux bob.
The low pony was “modern and feminine, yet has that 60s glamour and polished feel to it”, said Session.Master James Nicholson. The texture was inspired from the teased hair in the 60s, but brushed out and downplayed “so it was still sharp but slightly undone”. The style also had a slight ‘beehive’ vibe, but was kept tight on the sides of the head.
GET THE LOOK:
1. Prep hair with ANTI.GRAVITY.SPRAY ($32.95) and dry in.
2. Create a centre part and pull hair back into a ponytail slightly under the crown.
3. Back-brush the entire head lightly to create texture and a base, then brush out 80% of the back-brushing to create a “fuzzy” texture. (Note: use a brush and not a comb to achieve the right texture)
4. Secure the low pony with hat elastic at the base of the skull.
5. Back-brush the ponytail, then use a smoothing brush to remove 60% of back-brushing to achieve the 60s volume and shape.
6. Smooth the hair on both sides of the head with a smoothing brush, and follow with SESSION.SPRAY ($29.95) to shape and finish.
The second look was a faux bob, the illusion created with by an extremely low ponytail tucked into high necklines. This style explored the bluntness and “geometric shapes that women cut into their hair around the front”, said Gorman. The “wispy bits” were to “soften the look of the hair at the front so that it looked like they had swept back a fringe”. Gorman also recommended this style to women who were not prepared to cut their hair short but loved the popular look of shorter hair this season.
GET THE LOOK:
2. Part hair as desired and back-brush only the roots from underneath 1-2 times.
3. Brush out 80% of this back-brushing with a smoothing brush, but leave more volume on the crown and just below the ear (where the ‘bob’ will end).
4. Leave a small piece of hair in front of the ear (to soften the style). Comb the rest of the hair back in the desired direction and secure with hat elastic at the base of the neck.
5. Use SESSION.SPRAY to finish. Tuck the pony-tail into a high neckline and allow the hair above the pony-tail to ballon out of the collar, creating the illusion of a bob.
MYER ambassador Jennifer Hawkins wore a high bun on the red carpet, which was let down for the show into a high pony. This pony had the same “fuzzy” texture as the models’ hair.
For the men, each model had a customised hairstyle, with the stylists aiming to simply accentuate each individual model’s features. KEVIN.MURPHY focused on a high-shine, almost patent-leather texture, which was achieved with new KEVIN.MURPHY UN.DRESSED ($34.95), followed by HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY for hold. This glossy texture will be key for men in 2013, moving away from the more matte, waxy finishes that were prevalent last year.
Gorman believes that 2013 is “the age of texture”, from wet-look back-combs to the “fuzzy” ponys created for the MYER runway. He encourages women to not “be scared of texture”, and to draw inspiration from the 1960s without the styles becoming too retro. Playing with texture and making the style imperfect will keep the look fresh and modern.
MAKEUP BY YVES SAINT LAURENT
Makeup for the runway show was directed by Yves Saint Laurent, and featured “a strong influence of the 60s flick with a modern twist”. Make-Up Director Natasha Severino wanted to create a “dramatic but modern” look, and like the hair by KEVIN.MURPHY, played with textures. The striking eye had a matte finish, which juxtaposed the luminosity of the skin. Brows were groomed, and cheeks were “sculpted with a slight flush”. The lips were also kept fairly neutral and appeared “natural, soft and moist”.
GET THE LOOK:
1. Use Le Teint Touché Éclat foundation ($78) as a base over the entire face and blend well into the neck and jawline.
2. Use Touché Éclat ($55) under the eye and to highlight the face (cheek-bones, temples, chin, external lip-line). If further concealing is required, use Anti-Cernes Concealer ($55) and lightly powder.
3. To achieve the perfect retro-inspired flick, first map out the desired shape by dotting with Eyeliner Effet Faux Cil Pen #1 Black ($59). Start by dotting the tip of the flick then work the dots back towards the eye’s outer corner. Join these dots together with a smooth line, from the tip of the flick towards the eye in a downwards motion. Fill the shape in with new Eyeliner Effet Faux Cil Creme #1 Black. Follow with the navy shade in the Pure Chromatics Eyeshadow Palette #11 ($90) to achieve the velvet-matte finish, and to give depth and a modern look.
4. Apply Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cil #1 Black ($52) at the roots of lashes to intensify the lash-line.
5. Use Eyebrow Pencil ($45) to create a full and sculpted brow.
6. Give cheeks a soft flush with a mixture of Blush Radiance #1 and #4 ($72). Blend the colours on the brush and then apply, starting from the apples of the cheeks and working towards the jawline.
8. Finish with light application of Matte Radiant Pressed Powder ($86) to the T-Zone only.
Severino believes that makeup trends this season will point to “old Hollywood glamour” and “the silver screen”, which will be reflected in a strong retro-inspired eye like the one she created for the MYER runway, and also in deeper wine and mulberry colours for lips. She also encourages women to play with textures, using “mattes to emphasise highlights”, and vice versa. Luminous skin continues to be key, which can be achieved with Le Teint Touché Éclat foundation and the cult product Touché Éclat.
Images: Sabine Legrand for Couturing (except where credited).